Okay. So Cantillon, the mother of all sours since 1900, never has to be “revisited” because it is always the boss. Many people don’t know what it is, though. Especially if you live in Toronto, where the stuff is pretty hard to find (though bar Volo always has the best selection and WVRST has a couple), and costs around $45 a bottle. The LCBO will never carry Cantillon. It’s the one brewery you should definitely visit if you go to Belgium, where you can witness open fermentation in all its musty glory, and apparently has a wicked cool cellar.
If you can’t make it to Belgium, head to whichever bar in your city/country is chosen each year for Zwanze Day, a celebration (and exclusive club of sorts) of all things Cantillon. For me, that’s Volo.
Though I hope to try many more varieties, the sip of apricot Fou’ Foune I had this summer at Zwanze Day was pure love, and the Rosé de Gambrinus and Grand Cru Bruocsella were as expected: sour, tart. I’d love to try the elderflower Mamouche, and the Muscat Saint Lamvinus (which Volo carries). Until then I will dream of Cantillon.